Hotel Dieu in Beaune

Beaune, at the heart of Burgundy, is a lovely ancient village complete with ramparts and a 15th century Hotel Dieu, a public hospice, which provided care for the sick and dying, mostly the poor of the region. The building has the trademark multi-colored geometric tiled roof of Burgundy. The hall of the needy, pictured above, is lined with beds. The Pharmacy which used locally-grown and found minerals, herbs and spices, is beautifully recreated with hundreds of vials holding all types of strange potions, including the one above -- if you take its contents, do you become a Catholic?

When in France, one must drink wine, no?

It took a mere 3.5 hours to drive to Dijon, the capital of the Burgundy region in the east of France. We had a cheap and fun weekend -- 29 Euros to stay in a Formule 1 hotel in Dijon, then 12.50 to camp in the municipal campground in Beaune. Happily, the weather was on our side, sunny and warm, and we made the most of being surrounded by lovely wine!

Burgundy is much bigger than I thought. It begins north of Dijon with the Chablis region of wine production -- Chablis is made with Chardonnay grapes. South of Dijon you find the Cote d'Or, which includes the Cote de Beaune, Nuits St. George and more. The vineyards stretch on and on along gentle slopes. Pinot Noir and Gamay are the main red grapes produced in Burgundy.

We were thrilled to find ourselves there during harvest time - all across the vineyards you could see small groups of workers picking the grape clusters by hand. Compact and tall tractors travelled along the rows of vines following the pickers and carrying the boxes of grapes. In the sleepy villages, you could smell the recently crushed grape juice, and see the gentle excitement of the first phases of wine-making going on. A dreamy way to spend the weekend, for sure.

Why do people smile in the forest?

Patches of the Fontainebleau forest floor are carpeted with bluebells today. Weeks ago, we found patches of forest floor covered in wild daffodils (jonquilles sauvages).

The new oak (chene) and beech (hetre) leaves are that heart-rending pale chartreuse green that signifies spring.

The temperatures have soared to 82 degrees Fahrenheit, or 29 degrees Celcius - an anomaly for mid-April.

While in the city, or in the small towns, people don’t smile or say ‘bonjour’, in the forest, people smile and say a hearty ‘bonjour’ and give a big smile. Why?

People dress differently in the forest – more like Seattle; comfortable shoes - a veritable rarity in Paris – shorts and t-shirts.

Do people think they can trust other people in the forest? Why else let down your façade, your protection. Or do people think they might need each other in the event of a dinosaur or a saber-toothed tiger showing up suddenly? Do they greet you to see your teeth and evaluate your edibility?

A Flavor of France

Around the House in Le Perreux Sur Marne

As usual, Gillian negotiating the deal with the Agente Immobilier. Here is what things look like from the front courtyard. In the background is Nicolas picking the lock with his BNP Paribas debit card.
Hey Hey!!! Finally it's BBQ time again. Gillian, can you bring me a Red Hook?
Bonjour! Il fait beau Aujourd'hui. Here is the view of our bedroom window from the back garden. Gillian, watch out for the ivy!!! It has been a warm winter here in Paris. Grass mowing and terrace washing must be attended to, but there is always time for a nice cup of Starbucks from my KCTS insulated mug.

IN BRUGGE a new film staring Colin Farrell

OK, we have been doing this France thing now for roughly 19 months and 21 days and Gillian has been carrying the heavy load on keeping the Blog up to date. So now, god willing and the creek don't rise, our friends and family should have a chance to see our European experience through "The Eyes of Mike".

Brugge, Belgium...Our friends Marv and Edie from Seattle told us about Brugge about 3 years ago. They both raved about the beauty and interest that this city of canals, cathedrals and cobbled streets had to offer. I have to admit at the time I was not convinced that this Flemish city near the Belgian coast would really measure up to Marv and Edie's description. I am happy to report that they were absolutely right. Brugge, known as the Venice of northern Europe, is an amazing combination of carefully restored medieval village and modern European city. I would highly recommend Brugge for a weekend of boat rides in the canals, a bike ride through the quiet cobbled streets (Although a little bumpy) and a delicious dinner at one of the many outstanding seafood restaurants.

While we were there Gillian had the great experience of seeing Colin Farrell in the fresh. For those of you that don't know him, Colin is a swarthy and seductive Irish actor that makes Gillian's heart go pitter patter. Colin was in Brugge while we were there to film his newest movie called "In Brugge"
Here I am buried up to my armpits in the sand along the Belgium coast. Not so seductive and/or swarthy. Gillian...Gillian...come back!

Seek out the green roads

Leave Paris on the N-3, heading northeast, go through Meaux (where the lovely Brie de Meaux is produced) to the town of La Ferte sous Jouarre. From there, look for the network of little green-marked roads. Park your car on a wide spot in a quiet hamlet, and enjoy a country walk.

You know how your roadmap marks pretty roads with green? Well, so far, in France, all green roads are worth following. We approve.

France is also riddled, positively riddled, with hiking trails -- known as 'randonees', which are conveniently marked with discreet paint blazes - red, blue, yellow, white -- and elaborately documented on specialized maps and books which give incredible detail about the walk, and the surrounding area. These walks often send you into woods, then deposit you out on a little quiet road, send you through a village, then back to the countryside.

Layers and layers of roads, trails, villages, forests, history.

Senlis, one more beautiful village

The village of Senlis (you pronounce the 's' at the end), is about an hour north of Paris. Its a lovely spot for an afternoon of wandering through the ancient village, which still has remains of the Roman ramparts from the 3rd century, and medieval winding streets. Its cathedrale is also striking.

Autumnal Hiking

In the Forest which surrounds the Chateau de Fontainbleau, exists some of the most interesting hiking in the Ile de France area. Paris is located at the heart of Ile de France.

The forest contains hills, interesting rock formations, gorges, coniferous and deciduous trees, and of course in autumn, des champignons (mushrooms). The example above (dunno if its edible or not), was about 12 inches tall!!

Welcome to our new apartment - we hope.

After a 10-month search, after viewing about 50 apartments and houses, we have finally found an apartment which makes our hearts sing. We have signed the "Promesse de Vente" (promise to sell), and now we wait for the various French cogs to turn (bank, title search, etc.). If all goes well, we will get the keys on January 15 or thereabouts. Wish us luck.